Day 32: Salzburg – Sankt Johann im Pongau

July 18th, 2008
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Honeymoon over, today was my entry into the alps. I saw snow-peaked mountains in summer for the first time, and almost wore out my camera snapping pictures of them.

This morning I awoke to the sounds of campers trying to unbog their caravans. For some reason I gained a small amount of satisfaction from this. There was one caravan, with German numberplates, which was actually as big as the flat I lived in in Wroclaw.

The rain didn’t stop in the morning, so I rolled up my soaking wet tent and left Salzberg with the usual moderate navigational difficulties. These distracted me enough that I forgot to visit the Wasserschloss — a castle on a lake which apparently was filmed in the Sound of Music.

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I did, however, go and see Festung Hohenwerfen. Festung means fortress, like Festung Breslau. Well I didn’t actually go in, just walked to the door and took some photos (it cost €10, not even including the nanna train up the hill).

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Coughed the affordable €3 to walk through the Liechtensteinklamm. I went there without any faint idea what a klamm is. It’s actually a gorge with waterfalls and rivers through it. This one had a boardwalk, with signposts ominously but not quite eloquently disclaiming all liability if they fall down onto the rocky creek below. Was wet, and worth the look.

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Got to Schwarzach in the afternoon, just as the tourist bureau closed, and spent about an hour asking about and looking for a tent campsite. Had to go backwards to Sankt Johann im Pongau to an OK place run from a restaurant, with toilets and showers in a cool underground bunker. Scored the left-overs of a “traditional Dutch dish” from my neighbours. More food: almost always welcome.

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Dep 9:30, arr 5:45, dst 89km.

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