Beethoven for breakfast: cereal sonatas
August 22nd, 2008It is an object of repeated worry for me that the view of Europe that I experience is not true European life, or even something close. Would my time be better spent participating in real Australian life, and seeing and learning about the world through the lens of Foreign Correspondent, and late night SBS movies?
My lodgings are campsites or youth hostels, though I have received a good handful, of accomodation offerings from locals, which for various reasons I couldn’t make work. I would like to try warmshowers.org but unreliable access to e-mail, or fiddling with public telephones, the necessity to meet a schedule, has made me reluctant so far.
At camping, if I talk to anyone, I talk mainly to Dutch people on holiday, but there are not often campers my age. So then there are the hostels with foreigners who have pretty much the same idea to me, but it has been a bore and I’m starting to dread the dorm friend process — hello, where from, where to, standard questions, leaving tomorrow, oh by the way are you on facebook? No, well I guess we can’t be friends then…
And the majority of conversations I have with the locals are related to business transactions. These are usually enjoyable and return useful goods and services, except in France where contempt for anglophones (or is it just me?) is de rigueur. I dread every time I need to ask a baker for a yummy long white loaf of bread. My ineptitude with the language is obvious, but they can sense fear, and know the meekness which belongs to my culture. Anyway, these
are only genuine European experiences within the scope of doing commerce in Europe.
So unless you are exceptional or willing to fool yourself, the European experience is an unattainable ideal, so one should at least be comfortable while spending money to be fed the tacky tourist lie.
Which brings me to the hostel I’m staying at today. It has an intense holiday vibe and there seems to be some enthusiasm for the well-being of guests. At breakfast, the normal din of conversation, cutlery on china, chairs scraping, the occasional glass smashing… today was mixed with assorted piano sonatas by Beethoven, some movements from some of his symphonies, and one song by Chuck Berry. I appreciated this small effort (though they could have had all movements, and in the right order), but the best breakfast music I have enjoyed was in the Boomerang Hostel, Antwerp, where the hostess Megui every day played one Norah Jones CD, on repeat. Every day! Because she liked it. I imagine when I come back to the Boomerang Hostel and sit at the big circular table in the smokey living room, Norah will still be singing for breakfast.
So today, I will sit in this hostel on the hill and not go out, because I think I’ve seen all I need to see in Nice, and the noise is really stressful after the solitude of the mountains. Tonight I will probably go into to the hostel bar, make an effort to talk to someone I will never see again, tomorrow I head along the coast, and try to grasp the European experience.
August 22nd, 2008 at 4:53 pm
come back, I’ll play Norah over and over again
August 25th, 2008 at 9:34 am
Well to add my 2 cents on European travel that has recently been informed by my watching of Long Way Down (motorbike adventure, two guys go from UK to Cape Town via hostage situation in Africa) the Italians seem to be much more friendly than the French. When they stopped in camped in Italy the hosts were always cooking food for them etc. Again the whole lanugage problem, but probably far more likely to be invited into people’s homes etc to expereience the ‘true’ European experience, rather than just watching it in stere and smello vision (i.e. real life). Not meaning to bag the French and not a conincidence that I’ve bagged them once on this blog as the it does sound like a great place to go, but I think you’ve got to really know the language and be there a long time if you’re after an experience rather than a postcard.
August 25th, 2008 at 12:46 pm
The French don’t even necessarily like talking to other French speakers. I’ve heard from more than one French (speaking) Canadian that they even speak English back to them or just act like they can’t understand them in some cases. To be honest I’m not sure what you’re supposed to do…